From the Collection of the V&A, June 2002
Click on the images or any link for a 1200x1600 pixel version.
A Regency Lady
Evening dress - British, 1807-11
Machine-made pink silk net embroidered with garlands of chenille roses
Coloured dresses were popular as well as white. Women often dressed in patterned fabrics during the day. They also wore pink, yellow, and blue slips beneath their white muslin gowns. Evening dresses made of coloured net became fashionable. They were always worn over a slip which was usually made of white satin. This gave the garment a soft, diaphanous look.
An Early Romantic Lady
Women’s undergarments - c. 1834
Shift - linen with cotton frills. Short enough to be tucked into pantaloons without massive bulges, more like an undershirt than a slip.
Drawers/pantaloons - cotton. Mid-calf.
Corset - cotton quilted and corded. Sewn straps, central single busk, reaches to mid-hip. Front appears unboned, with any boning being at the back sides. Single cord tie, not double, so not worn as tightly as later. Shape: slim hips, high, widely spaced breasts.
Day dress - English, 1830
Printed cotton on dyed red ground. Turkey red background, overall large floral print in yellow and blue.
Collar and cuffs detachable whitework embroidery. Would have been worn with many dresses. Not original to this dress - different donor.
Gigot sleeves and bell skirt came in from the late 1820s. The bell skirt is flatter in back than expected in these post-hoop skirt days.
Bonnet - French, 1829
Ivory silk trimmed with yellow silk gauze ribbon
The fashions of the 1820s and 1830s were influenced by the Romantic revival. Novels, poetry, the theatre, especially opera, inspired styles. The tight-waisted dresses with their very full sleeves and wedge-shaped skirts perhaps reminded their wearers of such popular heroines as Queen Elizabeth and Mary Stewart who gave their names to fashions. Textiles were light and crisp - and often patterned - trimmings light and ingenious and very finely worked. Whitework for collars and fichus was very important and shawls high fashion. Between 1820-28 the waistline slowly descended to a line just above the natural waist and the sleeves increased in size. The hem widened and was decorated with deep bands of trimmings. By 1830 sleeves had reached their fullest and were set low below the shoulder. They then began to narrow slowly at the top but the straight sleeve was not fashionable until after 1840.
A Regency Gentleman
Double-breasted Dress Coat - English, 1815-20s
Fine quality blue wool. Cut with a waist seam. Gold buttons. Pocket in each tail. Buttons at top of tail split.
Shown with white poplin waistcoat and straight, loose trousers in unbleached cotton.
‘Cossack’ Trousers - English, 1820s
The trousers are full cut, tapered to the ankles, and kept taut by button straps under the instep. They are attached to a deep waistband gathered at the front. Proto-suspenders (braces), being self-fabric and very thin, help hold them up.
Double-breasted Caped Frock Coat - English, 1820s
Fine quality beige wool with cut silk velvet collar. Has waist seam and centre back vent with two pockets either side. Edges trimmed with beige silk twill. Cuffs have two-button fly opening. Full but straight skirt.
An Early Romantic Gentleman
Frock coat - English, 1828-30
Mixed brown silk and worsted, with cut silk velvet shawl collar and cuffs. Fastened by two hooks and eyes and silk tasselled braids and toggles. Constructed with waist and underarm seams as well as centre back and side seams. Centre back vent and pleats with pockets. Padded shoulders. Lined throughout with cinnamon-coloured silk taffeta.
Owner was approx. 50 years old at time coat made: conservative cut?
The nineteenth century frock coat derived from the great coat influenced by military styles. It had a fitted body and straight skirts. Often decorated with braids and frogging, in early nineteenth century. It superceded the dress coat for formal occasions.
Waistcoat - English 1820s Silk plush, light coloured.
‘Cossack’ Trousers - English, 1820s
Printed cotton - striped, with zigzag ankle pattern
Shoes
Women’s shoe - 1806-11
Leather, brown, with a round toe and a low, wedge shaped heel. Very little difference in shape between women’s slippers and men’s.
Wellington boot - 1817-1820s
Leather with a red leather leg, square toe, low heel. Toe much longer than expected, tends to start to curl a bit like elf shoes. Leg and heel very much your expected wellington.
A Late Romantic Gentleman
Shirt - 1844
Linen, pleated front.
Cravat - mid-19th century
Black satin, preformed bow, stiffened band, buckled fastening.
Suspenders (Braces) - Irish, 1847
White satin covered in silk net embroidered in coloured silks, wools, and gilt metal beads. Elastic straps and white leather tips, steel buckles.
Trousers - 1840
Pale grey wool.
Kept taut by straps attached to trouser bottoms and fastened under insteps by brass links.
Dress Coat - USA, late 1840s - early 1850s
Blue-black fine wool with velvet collar.
Trousers - USA, late 1840s - early 1850s
Linen woven in twill.
Scarf Cravat - English, 1840s
Black satin with preformed bow and buckled fastening.
Waistcoat - early 1850s
Figured silk damask.
Top Hat - mid-19th century
Silk plush.
Notes for elements described but not pictured:
Women’s shoe - 1830-35
Yellow satin trimmed with matching ribbon bow. Shape much like a modern ballet slipper. Very thin sole. Heel-less, with rounded square toe.
Pictures for elements without notes:
Men’s Shoe - 1820s
Cossack Trousers (and Housecoat?)
Dress - 1847